DAY 1. Our first day consisted mainly of traveling from Osaka to Kyoto via a series of trains. The trip took twice as long as expected (~3 hours), mainly due to our difficulty ascertaining the difference between the local and express rails, as well as getting lost multiple times in metro centers (read: repeatedly going up and town tiny elevators, packed with 5 suitcases). On the plus side, I learned the Kanji for “Open” (開) and “Close” (閉). Kinda looks like elevator doors opening and closing, huh?
When we finally arrived in Kyoto, we took a taxi to the rental office, only to get lost again. Unfortunately, buildings do not appear to have a numbering system, and no one spoke enough English to point it out. Once we found the rental office, filling out the paperwork consisted of word-by-word, fragmented translations aided by a pocket dictionary. Later that evening, we briefly explored our neighborhood and ate dinner at a small, local restaurant. The cooks prepared yakisoba noodles in front of us on a large hibachi grill, and then intently watched us as we ate (a little awkward since we were only two of three customers.) The food was good, a little on the sweeter end, except for the fish flakes they put on my vegetarian dish. Chris was sweet and tried picking them off my food, but I am sure I just looked like a picky American. Still hungry, we went to the local convenience store, “Family Mart”, where I bought a small packaged flan (they have them everywhere!) and bubble tea.
View of our neighborhood
Day 2. Our second day was mainly dedicated to errand running. The rental office needed us to pay our rent up front, in cash, so our original plan was to withdraw money from a local ATM, later open up a bank account, and then get our resident status finalized at the local municipal office. However, it turned out that we went in the exact opposite order. First, Chris visited multiple ATMs across town, but was unable to withdraw the money with an international card. Second, we went to the post office to open up a bank account, but learned we first needed our address printed on our resident cards. Next, we walked to the Immigration Bureau (where surprisingly people did not know English), only to learn that we needed to go to our local ward office instead. That meant figuring out the bus system.
The bus ride went well until it came time to pay. Chris took out a 1000 yen ($10) and explained that he would pay first, then I could use the change to pay for my ticket (each ride is $2.20). Chris inserted the bill, change was given, and he hopped off the bus. I took out $2.20, inserted the money, and tried to walk off the bus, only to be lectured by the bus driver. Of course, I didn’t know any Japanese, so, confused, I inserted an additional $0.10, thinking maybe some of the money didn’t go through. Again, I tried to walk off the bus, and again the bus driver lectured me. Confused, I pushed an additional $0.05 into the machine. By now, I was sure that I had paid my fare, and I began to notice a line growing behind me. A third time the bus driver said something to me in Japanese. Now I was thoroughly confused and embarrassed. I called out to Chris that I didn’t understand what was going on and helplessly handed the bus driver my wallet. Then I apologetically got off the bus as quickly as possible, making multiple bows and saying “arigato gozaimasu, sumimasen gozaimasu” (thank you so much, I am so sorry). Only later did I realize that Chris hadn’t actually paid for his ticket, but instead had inserted money into a change machine and hopped off the bus, having paid for nothing. Oh Chris!
Our first homemade meal
On our way to the ward office, I saw a new, more city-like side of Kyoto, which offered many restaurants (including Nepalese, Latino, and Vietnamese food), stores, and countless French patisseries. I also became more assured of my potential for finding food during the upcoming year, after my fishy (haha) experience the previous night. On the way home, we visited a local grocery store and bought produce and a few packaged items whose contents we could discern from adorable pictures. We also walked on a path along the river, where we saw beautiful wildlife, including several cranes. It reminded me a bit of walking along the W&OD trail. Later that evening, Chris and I made a dinner of Japanese eggplant and bok choy stir fry with noodles.
Day 3. Today was more of our “Exploration Day”. To start, we walked around the beautiful Kyoto University campus until it began to rain, a welcome change from 90°F heat and heavy humidity. As we headed into town, we discovered a new grocery store. Not only was food cheaper and offered greater variety than our local grocery store, but, to my glee, I found figs, vegetable bouillon cubes, and jasmine tea (jasmine cha). We also discovered the most fantastic Japanese vegetarian/vegan restaurant, called Cafe Proverbs 15:17, which serves a wide variety of sandwiches, curries, noodle bowls, salads, and soups. I had an amazing avocado teriyaki tempeh sandwich and Chris had a delicious Japanese curry plate. We also met the owner, an incredibly nice younger man, who spoke great English, and who I instantly labeled as my new found friend. In addition, we discovered the Japanese equivalent of the dollar store, which sold an overwhelming amount of merchandise, including much needed waxed floss and American shampoo and conditioner. The one caveat was that you had to endure listening to “Freedom” by Aretha Franklin on instant replay over the loud speakers, while a high-pitched voice shouted out sale items in Japanese.
Japanese curry plate and black tea
Teriyaki tempeh sandwich
Wild berry soda
After discovering a vegetarian restaurant and a store that supplied basic American goods, I began to feel more confident about living in Kyoto. I felt a lot happier, and even my surroundings seemed more picturesque.
Our walk home
Our Kyoto Year 